When life gives you waves, learn to surf, they say. You can take it metaphoric, or ad litteram. However you do, the liberty feeling you get is just priceless.
Learning to surf was on the bucket list of my Latin American trip, and I wanted to find a very nice village by the Pacific and stay for some time to learn to surf. But I never found this village. I think it was only on my dreams. So I never stopped to learn surfing. There were so many mountains to climb. The Andes were calling me: Anca!!! One more, one more!! Look at these pictures!
I think this is the same that happens with the ordinary life: one more mountain to climb, one more certification, one more project, a better job, a better pay. And when we realise…
I got up to Colombia (north end of South America) and together with this fact I was at the end of my bucket list for this so much wanted trip. Was time to return home. But how one boards a one way flight to home when doesn’t want to go home? This was a question I had for days and weeks in my head and one day I was true to myself: one doesn’t board a one flight home just because the bucket list is over. I remembered by dream of learning to surf, so I said: I’ll fly back home when I’ll feel like.
Was time to learn to surf the waves!
I’ll write another post about how I learnt to surf. In this one, I just want to share what surfing taught me:
I hate the waves! I hate the Pacific! But I LOVE the sensation when the wave comes, you paddle hard, you feel the wave pushing you and… You jump on the board and… you are free!!!
This is what surfing gave me: the amazing feeling of being in a place I’m not necessary in love with, understand it, discover it, feel it, surf it and once I did it, I’m free to go and make it an amazing experience for life!